PolarQuest’s guides are blogging from Ocean Nova on the trip Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falkland Islands.
Elsehul – Rosita Bay
Nothing could have prepared us for South Georgia. At once a mirror image Swiss Alp scene painted on green Southern ocean canvas & impossibly arisen Atlantis: some mythical forgotten wonderland thrust up from the depths of watery dreams of purity, wildness, ruggedness and serenity, and so very importantly in a world almost overrun by one species….a place of rejuvenation, of nature untouched, of the moving innocence and vulnerability of creatures who call this magical place home.
South Georgia has honestly successfully dissolved the boundaries we thought we had for being captivated, astonished and all the other big words you can think of…the buzz around our group throughout today, on the beach, at dinner, wherever we found ourselves was….joyful! There were many periods today when we were much too engaged in witnessing to say much at all…yet when we did, excitement at shared impressions bubbled over. Somehow the sharing of such experiences makes them more real.
As always, the Expedition team moved us efficiently to an early landing at Elsehul, drifting us onto black volcanic sand, glassy clear water and floating ribbons of rust coloured kelp providing the final barrier to virgin shores and delineating the prevailing offshore winds.
An early breeding season fauna turn-out dominated by territory seeking males and fewer females spared us entanglement with cantankerous Antarctic fur seal and four tonne Elephant seal bulls with raging hormones on auto-pilot. The viewing was certainly nonetheless intense, rather than being overwhelmed with sheer numbers of animals…it was the intimacy of proximity and chance to silently witness finer details and exquisite moments that was more often over-riding and captured our attention and imagination.
Once safely through the Seal Beach-patrol, we ascended tussock grass hills to rare Grey-headed albatross nesting on earthy pedestals on cliff top vantage points. These Queens of the South peacefully and regally rested as we captured images, returning via gentle nesting Gentoo fussing over nests and each other to create the necessary bond. King penguins huddled by decaying oil rendering tri pots from times thankfully passed.
From the dining room windows, blue icebergs appeared, grounded by King Haaakon Bay, small friezes of Antarctica and ten times the size of our ship!
Rosita Bay, an extra sunset excursion, sported scenery reminiscent of an enormous beached Orca, all blacks and whites, curved black peaks caped in shapely undulating snow drifts and interesting geological patterns created by the eternal freeze and thaw. Antarctic terns escorted us home.
In today’s world, ‘It’s a Paradise’ is an often over-used phrase. In South Georgia it’s an under-statement of a place beyond words and beyond common experience.
Sunset, hot showers and a festive dinner…not your average day…not by a long way!
