To many people visiting Svalbard is a life changing experience. On board our small expedition ships we experience a magical world of midnight sun and pack ice, glistening glaciers and unique wildlife. This untouched and magnificent wilderness is as favourite haunt to many of the world’s polar bears, walruses, seals and whales. Here you get a little taste of our Svalbard adventures!
PolarQuest’s guides are blogging from Ocean Nova on the trip Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falkland Islands.
Festive Christmas snows greeted us this morning in Orne harbour, as we looked out through the mysterious greys over a panorama of softly white powdered ridges and solitary ice floes, hardly a breath of wind to ripple the water between.
After a rewarding few days exploring islands of the peninsula, enjoying the ever present entourage of gliding seabirds as constant companions, delighting in spontaneous appearances of seals, whales and penguins, this day wore an entirely different significance. Today we would touch down on the Antarctic continent itself and if indeed it’s possible to step into a real dream, we were about to do exactly that.
Swedish national pride was unfurled with her turquoise and golden flag hoisted to a rowing oar, high up on a slope above the chosen landing. We lowered snow covered zodiacs to ferry all our excited expeditioners to this secluded, seldom visited shore, some of whom this morning would touch their 7th continent, true explorers in their own right!
Five hardy souls stole this rare opportunity to celebrate with a splash, and stripped down to ‘the winter woollies’ for a Polar Plunge in below zero icy water…good laughs and photographs enjoyed by those who preferred not to risk frostbitten digits.
The Gods of weather shined upon us once again and soon baby blue sky patches appeared, gradually brightening the scene, heightening its magical tranquillity, reminding us once again of our great fortune to be cradled in such a gorgeous place.
Sheltered and protected waters invited a last chance to investigate yet another of Antarctica’s hidden gems at Melchior Island. Weddell seals, rested in camouflage coats, impossibly beautiful bergs of fractured glass texture mirrored below in brilliant azures, buoyed and bathed in crystal clear water, chinstrap penguins in private snowy enclaves nested peacefully, magnificent ice caves and a sublime frozen waterfall left us speechless once again…
Time to steer north. Time to say goodbye to this special place. But what a time we’ve had!
PolarQuest’s guides are blogging from Ocean Nova on the trip Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falkland Islands.
Enveloped in mist and fog, legendary Elephant Island welcomed us with open arms this morning, peaceful seas and no wind, almost unheard of in this place mercilessly exposed to the fury of nature’s storms. As if by the same hand that offered deliverance to those hardy men long marooned here, the veil of mist lifted on arrival, revealing virgin snows on voluptuous mountainous peaks and black brooding cliff faces, their crevices dusted with ice crystals, delineating their fractured forms.
Beautiful blue icebergs in layered azure wandered and waltzed the eddy currents around Point Wild. Sea had sculptured recognisable patterns; a blue whale and a lion resting. We dropped our trusty fleet of Zodiacs and went in for a closer look.
Colourful Cape petrel’s or pintado’s, patterned snowflakes on chocolate, swirled above our heads, to find sanctuary in nesting holes in vertical rock walls. Chinstrap penguins in their hundreds nested on impossibly elevated icy platforms, high above the often raging, untrustworthy breaking tide and beyond the prowl of hungry leopard seals.
Hot breakfast and steamy coffee fuelled us for Morten’s illumination on identifying cetaceans in ‘What’s that whale?’, so relative to our amazing last two days of sightings of fin, blue and killer whales.
As every minute ticked by, we sailed more deeply into the inner sanctum of Antarctic waters. Now in the ‘screaming sixties’ wind speed rose as our Ocean Nova gallantly maintained her line and balance, securing a safe passage south.
Raw fury, brilliant greens and blues, white capped waves, distant island summits bathed in pure snow reflections, dramatic gleaming icebergs released to drift direction less in the maelstrom. We came here to experience wildness and Antarctica was delivering!
PolarQuest’s guides are blogging from Ocean Nova on the trip Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falkland Islands.
It couldn’t get any better could it? We had already seen so much! So many inspiring, uplifting, jaw-dropping, unbelievable, incredible, fantastic, special, magnificent, and breathtaking experiences and while we were only just over half way through our expedition, we were fast running out of words to describe it. ‘Nice morning’ we’d say to each other while heading back to ship, then a smile of shared understanding that it was a super day that had bombarded the senses and left us quite speechless!
Great weather and recharged from a deep nights rest, we were indulged with a long morning to draw breath and soak up at a very relaxed pace this wonderful place. Gold Harbour has proven to be the pinnacle of eccentric wildlife viewing so far, all co-existing on and around one sweeping crescent shaped beach, snow capped mountains providing a movie set backdrop. These creatures spend most of their life at sea, only visiting land to breed and moult.
In the Bay, the mosaic of different species living in niche zones in such close proximity to one another, is quite terrific to take in, and challenging not to be overwhelmed.
Giant Elephant bull seals weighing in at a frightening three tonnes, patrolled the waterline, issued throaty warning grunts then charged each other, rising up to fight violently for their lineage. Female elephant seals suckled crying newborn cubs amid the chaos, while King and Gentoo penguins carefully zigzagged through to colonies in non-seal territory. Male fur seals awaiting females assumed any vacant areas from beach to hilly tussock. Skuas, Petrels and Sheathbills watched patiently nearby for any signs of vulnerability that might become dinner. Every animal has its place.
On high ground enchanting lightly mantled Sooty Albatross were nesting, crooning and engaging in intimate aerial courtship displays and a burrowing White chinned petrel colony peppered the bluff.
At Coopers Bay, we slipped through swell to view a Macaroni penguin colony, took a zodiac cruise to see Chinstraps, Antarctic terns flittering all around us, arriving back to our ship to watch alpine clouds kiss snow clad mountains goodnight.
PolarQuest’s guides are blogging from Ocean Nova on the trip Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falkland Islands.
Elsehul – Rosita Bay
Nothing could have prepared us for South Georgia. At once a mirror image Swiss Alp scene painted on green Southern ocean canvas & impossibly arisen Atlantis: some mythical forgotten wonderland thrust up from the depths of watery dreams of purity, wildness, ruggedness and serenity, and so very importantly in a world almost overrun by one species….a place of rejuvenation, of nature untouched, of the moving innocence and vulnerability of creatures who call this magical place home.
South Georgia has honestly successfully dissolved the boundaries we thought we had for being captivated, astonished and all the other big words you can think of…the buzz around our group throughout today, on the beach, at dinner, wherever we found ourselves was….joyful! There were many periods today when we were much too engaged in witnessing to say much at all…yet when we did, excitement at shared impressions bubbled over. Somehow the sharing of such experiences makes them more real.
As always, the Expedition team moved us efficiently to an early landing at Elsehul, drifting us onto black volcanic sand, glassy clear water and floating ribbons of rust coloured kelp providing the final barrier to virgin shores and delineating the prevailing offshore winds.
An early breeding season fauna turn-out dominated by territory seeking males and fewer females spared us entanglement with cantankerous Antarctic fur seal and four tonne Elephant seal bulls with raging hormones on auto-pilot. The viewing was certainly nonetheless intense, rather than being overwhelmed with sheer numbers of animals…it was the intimacy of proximity and chance to silently witness finer details and exquisite moments that was more often over-riding and captured our attention and imagination.
Once safely through the Seal Beach-patrol, we ascended tussock grass hills to rare Grey-headed albatross nesting on earthy pedestals on cliff top vantage points. These Queens of the South peacefully and regally rested as we captured images, returning via gentle nesting Gentoo fussing over nests and each other to create the necessary bond. King penguins huddled by decaying oil rendering tri pots from times thankfully passed.
From the dining room windows, blue icebergs appeared, grounded by King Haaakon Bay, small friezes of Antarctica and ten times the size of our ship!
Rosita Bay, an extra sunset excursion, sported scenery reminiscent of an enormous beached Orca, all blacks and whites, curved black peaks caped in shapely undulating snow drifts and interesting geological patterns created by the eternal freeze and thaw. Antarctic terns escorted us home.
In today’s world, ‘It’s a Paradise’ is an often over-used phrase. In South Georgia it’s an under-statement of a place beyond words and beyond common experience.
Sunset, hot showers and a festive dinner…not your average day…not by a long way!
PolarQuest’s guides are blogging from Ocean Nova.
We were all very excited this morning to sight our first land for two days, greeted by a warm sun & clear blue skies! Many of us awoke earlier than necessary, too excited to sleep in, & ventured out on deck with binoculars in hand. Peale’s dolphins welcomed us as we approached Carcass Island, & energetic blue-eyed cormorants ushered us into Dykes Bay, in the avian wonderland that is the Falklands Islands.
After a quick Zodiac trip through kelp beds to a beach landing & briefing on the many possibilities to explore this beautiful bay, we wandered off, cameras at the ready, to discover colonies of nesting Gentoo penguins, delighting in all variety of their springtime romance. Magellanic penguins, Upland geese & tussock birds also attracted our attention, as some of us chose to climb a high ridge & share this lofty domain with majestic Caracara & Red-backed Hawks.
After such an engaging & invigorating morning, we’d built up a healthy appetite & made for the farmhouse of island owners Rob & Lorraine McGill for delicious homemade cakes & hot drinks! It was time to say our grateful goodbyes for the hospitality & head back to our good ship Ocean Nova for lunch, enthralled by our early morning experiences!
Aiming to make the absolute most of such beautiful weather & keen for more wildlife opportunities, we headed out straight after lunch to the exceptionally rich birdlife Mecca of Saunders Island. Thousands of nesting Gentoo penguins, gathered in circular communities of hundreds at a time, had us very aware of the incredible privilege it was to be so close to such a sensitive time in the breeding season on such a scale, & in such a breathtaking panorama of sand dunes, wild ocean views & windswept hilltops.Carefully picking our way toward higher ground, avoiding the many burrows of more private pairs of Magellanic penguins, we came upon an enormous colony of thousands of nesting Rockhopper penguins complete with quirky personalities & hairstyles to match!
Further still around the hillside we were privy to the enchanting valley communities of elegant Black browed albatross, offering nesting, preening, courting & gliding displays that completed an astonishing day of experiences that left us in no doubt that we were among a handful of the luckier people to have visited such a pure & untouched wilderness!
Returning to ship we enjoyed the culinary treats on board & shared stories of all the nuances that made today so extraordinary!
PolarQuest’s guides are blogging from our trips.
Sunday, Sept 25th, 2011 – Pink river dolphins
A late breakfast brought us up to Novo Airao, where we soon stood and sat watching the Boto or Amazon Pink River Dolphins up close. So close in fact that many of us stroked the animals, and some received little nibbles from the long beaks. The rest of the morning was spent visiting the woodworkers’ foundation, wandering about town, or studying the Green Iguanas – and the beer – at the nearby Posada.
We travelled to the Anavilhanas Archipelago, a maze of more than 480 islands, today a national park. This lush green area houses a rare diversity of life forms, and in the late afternoon we undertook a peaceful canoe outing into a few of the channels here. Tiger-herons, oropendolas and parrots were sighted, and a distant troop of howler monkeys was heard. Two canoes met up with 3 Neotropical Otters, whilst the third canoe watched a Crocodile Tegu trying to swallow a fish. A few drops of rain were even felt, and with the clouds darkness came early.
After dinner, a long safari revealed loads of night life: Nightjars, tree frogs, a Cane Toad, caimans galore, 2 tree boas, a huge tree rat, and an opossum were among the highlights – as well as the starry night itself
Friday, Sept 30th, 2011 – Meeting the jaguar
It was a wonderful day on the Cuiabá River and a couple of its tributaries. We sped upriver already at 06.30, spurred by the news that another team had found two Jaguars. We missed them by a few minutes, and shortly after missed another by even less. But the search went on, and while we cruised, we enjoyed the lush green banks as much as the floating vegetation, and the abundance of caiman, Capybara, herons, egrets, storks, hawks, swallows, terns, as well as brief views of a few Giant River Otters and a single Sun Bittern.
Many were probably beginning to think about lunch, when we heard of yet another Jaguar, and this time we got it. We enjoyed sightings of two females, one crossing the channel in front of us, viewing us briefly from the bank before slinking off. The other briefly walked along the bank before lying down in the shade, with its head in view for more than half an hour.
In the later afternoon, we headed back – this time under the threat of rain. In the same area as this morning, we enjoyed half an hour of wonderful Jaguar viewing, as a female patrolled the riverside, the hunt on during this hour of twilight before the night was all hers.
PolarQuest’s guides are blogging from M/S Quest.
In the middle of the night Adam woke us up with good news, he had spotted a blue whale! This rare whale is the largest animal ever to have lived on earth. Most of us jumped out of bed wand were rewarded by a good look of the impressive animal. This whale sighting turned out to be the beginning of another day full of luck. While eating breakfast a polar bear came to have a look what smelled so delicious. It stayed in the vicinity and we started with cruising along the pack ice towards the bear which came again curious towards us. After a while something on the beach was more interesting and we continued the cruise towards the walruses along the corner of Purchasneset.
The landing on an empty haul out beach welcomed us with the smell of them so we could get used to it, when coming close to the animals. If it was of the cold or from the smell that the wind blew right in our faces is not sure but everybody went after a short visit to the animals for a walk. We passed the Pomor’s grave, talked about biology and geology and found a walrus skeleton on the beach. Impressive to see how big the bones from these huge animals become.
Later we sailed North to the Sjuoyane but along the way we spotted a polar bear with a fresh kill, well that’s already very interesting, but it became even more special when a second bear showed up. This young female was of no threat to the huge male whom had killed the bearded seal, but it took him some time to realise that he was so full of food that she could have something as well. So after three hours of excitement we sailed along content with this happy ending.
Saturday 30 July 2011 – Heading: north
We were very lucky this morning to see our first polar bear walking alongthe shore of Amsterdamoya. We jumped into our zodiacs and carefully went after the polar bear whom went swimming but got ashore of Danskeoya. The polar bear wasn’t paying much attention to us, he was more interested in the harbour seals who were laying on the beach. We watched the polar bear very carefully go after the seals, but the seals just laughed at him, They jumped into the water en circled around him, splashing their tails like they were making a long nose and saying, ha ha you can’t get us.
After this exciting sighting, we visit the historical sites of Smeerenburg en Virgohamna where two attempts to reach the North Pole by air were started. On Smeerenburg we walked along the blubber ovens of the 17th century village. After lunch we sailed to Fuglefjorden where we started our zodiac cruise along the glacierfront of Svitjodbreen wich had a huge calving. The zodiac cruise continued to Holmiabukta where we hoped to find polar bears scavenging on the fin whale carcass but there were only bones left, still impressive though.
July 2 – Our first Polar Bear
This was a day in the true Arctic pack ice. In our quest for the King of the Arctic – the Polar Bear, we decided to spend the whole day zig-zagging in the maze of drifting sea ice. Adam spend hours in the crow’s nest with his binos glued to his frozen face in order to spot the little yellow dots in the distance and eventually it paid off.
Later in the afternoon we spotted our first polar bear on the drifting ice. This is where they prefer to be, where they can find their favourite prey – seals. We also spotted several of those. Greenland seals porpoising like dolphins and here and there the odd Ringed Seal and Bearded Seal, all part of the polar bear’s menu.
We also managed to do the shortest zodiac ride in history as the ice drifted much faster than anticipated, but we still had the time to do a short walk on the ice in front of the ship before it was time to return. Our sleepy polar bear that we had been watching for a while had started to move and we knew that we would stand better, and safer, chances of seeing him up close from the ship. In the evening we found even more polar bears and we decided to park the ship in the pack ice to see what would happen.
The king of the Arctic
July 4 – Alkefjellet – Bråsvellbreen
We had sailed through the night into the Hinlopen Strait that divides the two main islands in the archipelago and now we had reached the Alkefjellet bird cliff. We marvelled over the sheer mass of sea birds, most of them Brünnich’s Guillemots – approximately 250 000 of them – but we also spotted the odd Kittiwake and Glacous Gull. Then we proceeded to the opposite side of the strait to the Torellneset point. Here we paid a visit to the local walrus colony. What a sight! But perhaps more impressive was the close encounter with these one-and-a-half-ton animals at the shoreline. Ulrika will never forget the feeling of being sized up by one of these Arctic icons from just a few meters distance. A long awaited hike led us into the barren arctic landscape where we stumbled across the remains of a young polar bear.
Onboard we later sailed for the third largest fresh water ice mass on the planet – the Austfonna Ice Dome and the Bråsvellbreen glacier front. We followed this amazing formation from the south and finally we ended up in the Vibebukta Bay. Here we intended to spend the night close to the fast ice…
Torellneset
July 9 – Prins Karl’s Forland
Our journey was coming to an end, but not just yet. We still had time for one more adventure, so we landed at the northernmost tip of the Prins Karl’s Forland – the westernmost island in the archipelago. This is a beautiful landing with the high bird cliffs towering above the tundra we walked. Lots of arctic flowers were to be found since the climate is more benign here on the west coast than the eastern parts where we had been.
The local Harbour Seals where also there to say hello before we returned to the ship and continued south. Time was running short so we used the rest of the day to steam south towards Longyearbyen and civilisation, but first we were treated with Kjell’s final dinner, which included an outdoor show of dessert cooking with some dubious ingredients.
Prins Karl’s Forland
Best Regards Adam Rheborg
